Lima Beyond the Layover
Last year, a friend reached out asking for recommendations. Like most travelers, she and her family were only spending a day in Lima before heading to Cuzco and Machu Picchu. That’s unfortunate, because many visitors treat Lima and its surrounding neighborhoods as little more than a stepping stone to Cuzco and other tourist destinations.
But Lima has so much to offer and should not be overlooked. The culinary scene alone is worthy of its own trip, and you could easily spend a week sampling the many incredible restaurants throughout the city.
Lima has changed considerably over the years and is constantly reinventing itself. Every time I visit and reconnect with friends and family, we venture out to discover somewhere new. But it’s also the tried-and-true places that continue to make each trip special.
Whenever we travel to Lima, we always stay in Miraflores. It’s where I spent much of my youth, and it remains my favorite part of the city.
I always recommend that people stay in Miraflores because there’s so much to do beyond just eating. Hotels range considerably in price, but my favorites are the mid-priced El Tambo 1 on La Paz, along with the higher-end Marriott and Belmond. We’ve stayed at all three (and others), and you really can’t go wrong with any of them.
If you’re only in Lima for a couple of days, I’d highly recommend splurging on the Marriott or Belmond. The ocean views are spectacular — with one caveat: if you visit during Lima’s winter months (roughly July through October), those famous views may be completely hidden behind the city’s persistent coastal fog.
Herman Melville, author of Moby-Dick, once described Lima as “the strangest, saddest city thou can’st see.” Spend enough time there during the gray winter months, and you’ll understand exactly what he meant.
Since she was only going to be in Lima for 24 hours, I put together the following itinerary to help maximize her visit. She’s active and comfortable walking throughout the day, but I still recommended using Uber XL to make the most of their time.
This itinerary is designed around one long day in Barranco and Miraflores, but it can easily be extended beyond that. If you’re planning to spend more time in Lima, you can slow the pace down and adjust it accordingly.
One important tip: make sure you have reliable cell service while in Lima. Check with your provider ahead of time to see what international travel options they offer. You can certainly get by without it since most hotels, cafés, and restaurants have reliable WiFi, but having access to your phone throughout the day makes getting around the city much easier.
Google Maps becomes incredibly useful for navigating Lima, and you’ll also want to have Uber set up before arriving. Uber XL rides are inexpensive by U.S. standards and are generally one of the safest and quickest ways to get around the city.
Since you only have one day, I recommend focusing on the following places to maximize your visit. I’ve arranged them in an order that keeps travel time between stops to a minimum.
If possible, plan on arriving in Lima on one of the late evening flights and avoid the 5 a.m. arrivals. Otherwise, you’ll be exhausted before you even start your day.
Bajada de Baños in Barranco
Morning in Barranco
Wake up early and take an Uber to this address in Barranco: Jirón Mariscal José Antonio de Sucre 335A. That’s “La Bodega Verde,” where you can have a light breakfast. This little café is tucked into a garden and is a perfect place to start the day.
After breakfast, cross the street and explore the small park before walking over to the “Puente de los Suspiros.” It’s literally right there. Spend some time wandering around and checking out the street art. There are also a few small galleries and shops worth visiting along the Bajada de Baños (above). I wrote a little about Barranco here: https://www.bestridesdc.com/journal/barranco.
From there, walk about five blocks north to Dédalo for a late-morning coffee or refreshment on their patio. Dédalo is a beautiful art gallery and shop featuring work from local artisans, and it’s easy to lose track of time browsing around. It’s also located next to a lovely little park with fantastic ocean views and a small statue of Mafalda — essentially Latin America’s version of Charlie Brown — making it a great area to relax for a while.
If it’s still too early for lunch after Dédalo, I’d either take an Uber to Larcomar or walk north along the malecón. Miraflores and Barranco recently built a pedestrian bridge connecting the two districts, making the walk far less arduous. The bridge, however, was mired in controversy and remains something of a sore subject for many locals, some of whom argue that it disrupted what was once an unobstructed view of the Pacific. You can judge for yourself — below is a photo taken shortly before the bridge was completed.
A view of la Quebrada Armendariz from El Malecon de la Reserva before the bridge connecting Miraflores to Barranco was built.
Midday in Miraflores
Larcomar is a beautiful open-air shopping center with a few worthwhile shops — especially the alpaca stores. It’s a great place to walk around, relax, and take in the ocean views. Stop by “La Iberia” and pick up some of their pisco-filled chocolates. Trust me on this one.
One recommendation, though: don’t have lunch at Larcomar. The food there tends to be overpriced and underwhelming.
When you’re ready for lunch, I’d recommend one of the following:
Option 1: Light Lunch
If you want a lighter lunch (my recommendation — save the big meal for dinner), walk to “Zimmermann” and order a couple of butifarras to share. These traditional Peruvian sandwiches are huge. Zimmermann is a relaxed local deli/coffee shop with a great vibe and a very neighborhood feel.
Option 2: Traditional Peruvian Feast
If you’re in the mood for a big traditional Peruvian lunch, head over to Panchita on 2 de Mayo. The portions here are gigantic, so it’s best to order a few dishes and share them. They do traditional Peruvian food exceptionally well. Make sure you order a Pisco Sour ;-)
Panchita gets busy, so I recommend making a reservation ahead of time, If not, you can usually wait comfortably at the bar. Fair warning: every time I eat lunch here, I end up needing a nap afterward. It’s an afternoon-ending amount of food.
Hint, if you do go to Panchita, tell them it’s your birthday :-)
ABOVE: The view of la Costa Verde from one of the Bicentenial Park along the Malecon..
Afternoon Along the Malecón
After lunch, I’d spend some time exploring central Miraflores. From either Zimmermann or Panchita, Parque Kennedy is either a pleasant walk or a short Uber ride away. The park’s main attraction is its cats — and there are LOTS of them. There’s also a beautiful church on the west side of the park that’s worth checking out. Other than being much better maintained now, the area probably still feels a lot like it did when I lived there. There are also plenty of great photo opportunities.
If you still have the energy, continue walking west along the Malecón Balta toward the ocean and Parque del Amor. It’s a great area to relax for a bit. There’s also a quieter park (San Marcelino Champagnat Park) just to the left of Parque del Amor (if you’re facing the ocean) with benches where you can sit, rest, and people-watch for a while
Parque Miguel Grau, just outside El Señõrío de Sulco. Perfect for an after dinner walk.
Dinner Recommendations
If you opted for the lighter lunch, I’d finish the day with dinner at one of these places, in order of preference:
La Huaca Pucllana
La Huaca Pucllana is easily one of our favorite restaurants in Lima and the place we always take first-time visitors. The restaurant sits next to an ancient pre-Inca ruin right in the middle of Miraflores, and the setting alone makes it worth the visit.
If you decide to go, make a reservation ahead of time and ask for a table near the ruins. They also make an excellent Pisco Sour. Honestly, if you only choose one “special” experience from this itinerary, this would be my pick. Save room for dinner here.
Señorio de Sulco
El Señorío de Sulco is another longtime traditional favorite. The portions are more reasonable, and they serve excellent traditional Peruvian food in a relaxed setting across from a beautiful park. They also make a fantastic Pisco Sour (notice a pattern?).
La Plazita
Go to La Plazita If you want something less traditional but still excellent. La Plazita is located across the street from Zimmermann. This is usually our go-to spot since it’s only a couple blocks from where we once lived. It’s super relaxed and a great place to unwind with a bottle of wine and a good dinner after a long day.
After that, head back and get some rest — like most travelers, you’ll probably have one of those early-morning flights to Cuzco the next day. If that’s where you’re headed, get ready for an incredible experience. Cuzco and the Sacred Valley are simply spectacular.
I’ve written about visits to the “belly button” of the world elsewhere in my journal, including Ten Days in Perú, The Pilgrimage: A few more days mountain biking in Perú and Salkantay, Step by Step.
ABOVE: Making Anticuhos at Grimanesa Vargas.
Other Great Places in Lima
If you’re spending more time in Lima, here are a few other excellent places worth considering.
Maido is outstanding. It’s heavily seafood-focused and definitely on the expensive side ($$$$), but absolutely worth it. I especially enjoy going there during Lima’s warmer months since the Nikkei cuisine just feels right in that setting. Maido has consistently ranked among the top restaurants in the world, and reservations are an absolute must.
Central was named the number one restaurant in the world in 2023. It’s also expensive, but completely worth the experience. If you plan on dining there, make reservations months in advance.
Osaka, in San Isidro, is also phenomenal — another fantastic Nikkei restaurant. It’s where all the cool, hip Limeños seem to go these days. One recommendation: go with someone who knows the menu because, like I did my first time there, you may end up ordering some weird-ass dish...
Isolina, in Barranco, is another favorite, although the portions are frankly obscene — just an absurd amount of food. It’s one of those places where you finish eating and immediately want to pass out afterward. (Panchita is very much the same way.)
Cebichería La Mar, on Avenida La Mar in Miraflores, is one of the restaurants that helped put Gastón Acurio — Peru’s culinary ambassador — on the map. Just a few blocks away is Pescados Capitales, another excellent cebichería.
If you find yourself in Barranco, you should also make a point of visiting Canta Rana. Canta Rana absolutely screams “local.” The place is full of character, packed with soccer memorabilia, and always seems to have a great atmosphere.
All three are phenomenal during the summer months — although, honestly, they’re great any time of year.
La Picantería, in Surquillo, is also excellent, but if you’re not standing in line by noon, expect a two-hour wait.
Other great spots worth considering include El Pan de la Chola, also in Miraflores, which serves fantastic sandwiches, Grimanesa Vargas which serves the most incredible Anticuchos and Sofá Café in Barranco, another great breakfast option.
One of my all-time favorite places, however, is La Lucha Sanguchería Criolla. More often than not, after one of those late-night arrivals into Lima and after checking into the hotel, I’ll make the walk over for a late-night dinner. It always seems to set the tone for the culinary experience that follows while staying in Miraflores and the surrounding districts.
I also maintain a Google Map with tons of other locations worth considering, which I update regularly.
The scenery on the way to Caral is pretty spectacular
Beyond Miraflores
None of the itinerary above includes Lima’s many cultural attractions, but there are plenty to choose from throughout the city. Some of my favorite activities are single-day tours through central Lima to visit the catacombs, Plaza de Armas, and other landmarks like La Punta in Callao.
You can also dedicate entire days to excursions outside the city, including a visit to Caral. Caral is considered the oldest known city in the Americas, dating back roughly 5,000 years. It is contemporary with Egypt’s pyramids and ancient Mesopotamian civilizations.
Another fantastic option is a trip to Paracas for a boat ride to the Ballestas Islands or a jaunt to la Huacachina to explore the sand dunes on a buggy. The islands rival the Galápagos in terms of the sheer abundance of wildlife.
If you happen to be in Lima in October and are comfortable with bullfighting culture and traditions, I highly recommend visiting Plaza de Acho. Built in 1766, it is the oldest bullring in the Americas and one of the oldest continuously operating bullfighting arenas in the world.
While you can certainly do all of this on your own, I highly recommend hiring a local guide to help with logistics and transportation. Need recommendations or help planning logistics? Feel free to contact me — I’m always happy to help people experience Lima beyond the usual layover.
There is a lot more content related to Lima and Miraflores in My Journal.
Making Friends in Paracas…