Barranco
If you’ve spent any time on this site, you know that I was born and raised in Lima, and that I return often to walk the streets of the city where I grew up.
This past January was no different. Once again, I took advantage of daily walks from my hotel to explore not just Miraflores, but neighboring Barranco—a bohemian district known for its colorful murals, hip coffee shops, and sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean.
January 2024, images & text: Martin Fernandez
Walking through Lima’s hippest District
During most visits, I tend to keep my walks closer to home in Miraflores. This time, I made a point of spending more time in Barranco. Long regarded as a gathering place for artists, Barranco has earned its reputation as Lima’s creative and bohemian heart.
As you wander its streets, you’re met with an ever-changing mix of murals, hidden cafés, bars, shops, and restaurants. One of my favorite discoveries was La Bodega Verde (below), which serves a phenomenal breakfast. I nearly missed it one morning as workers were fixing the front doors—until they opened them, revealing a small oasis tucked just inside.
One of the things I enjoy most about Barranco is how colorful murals bring otherwise plain city walls to life. Several pieces by local artist Juan Carlos Chavez-Fernández can be found throughout the district. One of my favorites sits along the Bajada de Baños, beneath one of Barranco’s—and Lima’s—most iconic landmarks: Puente de los Suspiros.
BELOW: A few more murals found in and around Barranco.
BELOW: The view from the “Mirador Catalina Recavarren,” named after a local and influential poet who made Barranco her home. In the distance is the Morro Solar and Chorrillos, midway is the relatively new (2009) Lima Marina Club.
The Bridge of Sighs is among Barranco’s most visited sites. Legend has it that if you cross it while holding your breath, your wishes will come true. The bridge sits at the center of the district’s bohemian identity and was immortalized by Peruvian singer Chabuca Granda. A small plaza nearby is dedicated to her memory.
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Plazuela Chabuca Granda and el Puente De los Suspiros.
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The Stairs leading to el Puente de los Suspiros along Plazuela Chabuca Granda .
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El Puente de los Suspiros as seen along the Bajada de Baños.
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La Bajada de Ba˜nos (left) and Calle La Ermita as seen from the Avenida San Martin overpass
In addition to the digital images above, I brought along my Kodak Retina IIIc film camera for this trip to capture Barranco on film. Last fall, I photographed Miraflores in film as well, and I’ve also used the same camera in Turin, Italy.
I inherited the Retina from my father, and shooting with it has become one of my favorite ways to slow down and engage more intentionally with photography. The camera demands more thought than simply pointing and shooting, and I’ve found that it encourages greater attention to composition and surroundings.
ABOVE: Local Limeños enjoying a day out in Barranco. The beaches of la Costa Verde below are easily accessible from MIraflores and Barranco and are popular with local surfers.
The images below are a small selection of frames shot with the Retina. Other than minor cropping and straightening, they remain exactly as they came out of the camera—no color correction, exposure adjustments, or additional digital processing.
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Bajada de Baños; People make their way down to and back up to Barranco from the Costa Verde beaches below along the Bajada de Baños.
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A local landscaper ptiently waters the plants and trees that adorn la Plazuela Chabuca Granda in Barranco.
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El Puente de los Suspiros as seen from the Chabuca Granda Plazuela. The Bridge of Sighs is at the center of Barranco’s Bohemian Identity.
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El Puente de los Suspiros as seen from the Bajada de Baños. Legend has it that if you hold your breath when you cross its span your wishes will come true.
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The Monument to Chabuca Granda is made up by a pair of stone statues located at the Plazuela Chabuca Granda in Barranco, including this on of the Peruvian singer-songwriter.
ABOVE: The sun setting on Barranco. The Bohemian district will come alive at night.
This journal entry is a compiled summary of notes and impressions originally recorded in my Moleskine travel journal. Whenever I travel, I bring it along to jot things down so I don’t forget small details. I also carry a small Bluetooth photo printer to print select images (not the ones shown here) and paste them directly into the journal using adhesive-backed photo paper.
It’s a simple, tactile process that complements the slower pace of film photography and helps preserve memories beyond the screen.
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