Originally written November 8, 2013. Updated October 16, 2026.
This is a post I originally wrote in 2013. A lot has changed in lighting since then, so I’ve updated it with new information and what I’m running today.
Don't be afraid of the dark! Photo by Pete Beers. #wsgfabr
Just because it’s cold and dark doesn’t mean you can’t ride…
Fall is here, and with it come shorter days. Unfortunately (or fortunately), less daylight means more riding in the dark. But darkness doesn’t mean you shouldn’t (or can’t) ride. There are plenty of lighting systems that will let you keep enjoying your riding, on or off-road.
Below are a few tips I’ve learned over the years about riding at night and picking the right lighting system, so you can keep riding deep into the darkest nights.
The Basics
First and foremost, if you’re going to ride at night, ride somewhere you’re familiar with. This applies to both road and trail. If you’re riding off-road, stick to trails you know. Don’t go to that 30,000-acre state park you’ve been wanting to hit all summer for the first time at night. You’ll get lost, trust me…
Cold and dark winter riding can be very unforgiving. It may be OK to ride alone in the warm days of spring and summer when light is plentiful and temperatures are mild, but winter is not the same. Don’t ride alone. This is particularly critical off-road, where a mishap in the woods could very well mean the difference between life and death.
So, now that I’ve freaked you out a little, let’s move on...
Riding a trail or road you know at night can be like riding a completely different destination. I love hitting my local singletrack in the dark because it gives me a completely “new” riding experience. Riding at night heightens the senses, and it really shows you how much attention you’re paying to the trail during daylight hours.
At night you notice things that simply don’t show up during the day. For starters, critters that hide during the day come out under the cover of darkness. You’ll experience a completely new world, and in the process take your riding to the next level.
So, how do you make that dark outing a success? Start by picking the right light for the job. Back in 2013 I told you to look for lights that put out at least 500 to 700 lumens. Lights have come a long way since then. For the trail, I’d now look for something in the 1,500-lumen range or higher on the bars and 800 to 1,000 lumens on your helmet. For the road, 400 to 800 lumens with a good beam is plenty.
Lumens?
I’m not exactly sure when bike lights switched from “watts” to “lumens,” but just about every light is now sold by its lumen output. Lumens measure the amount of light a light produces. The more lumens, the brighter the light. But more lumens doesn’t necessarily mean a light performs better in the woods or on the road. Beam pattern matters just as much, if not more. A well-designed 1,500-lumen light with a good, even beam will beat a 3,000-lumen light that throws a hot spot down the middle and leaves you blind on the edges. Also take the numbers on the box with a grain of salt. Claimed output and run times aren’t always what you get on the trail, especially in the cold. The folks over at Outbound Lighting, my current lighting system, explain beam patterns better than I ever could.
On the road
Night (and day) road cycling is all about visibility. I recommend riding with lights during the day and at night.
During the day, run a flashing front (strobe) and a flashing rear light. Daytime running lights used to be something only a few of us did. Now they’re pretty much standard advice, and for good reason.
At night you need at the very least two lights: a forward-facing headlight and a rear-facing taillight. If you don’t have at least these two, I suggest staying home.
If you can only choose one forward-facing light, go with a bar-mounted light with a broad beam. The broad beam gives you a better field of view and better depth perception.
Your second MUST-have light is a seatpost-mounted taillight. I prefer a flashing “beacon” that constantly alerts drivers that you’re there. Choose as bright a light as possible, one that can be seen from far away and from at least 180°.
The biggest change on the road since I first wrote this post is radar. A radar taillight, like the Garmin Varia I run, warns you when a car is coming up from behind, either on your bike computer or with a beep from your phone. It doesn’t replace paying attention, but it’s been a great addition to my road rides, day and night.
Also wear as much reflective clothing and gear as you can, so you’re seen from far away and other vehicles’ lights work in your favor. Reflective tape is a great accessory you can add to your bike, your helmet and even your clothing.
Ultimately, I recommend at least two front-facing lights, one with a narrower beam on your helmet and one with a wide beam on your bars, plus at the very least one flashing red taillight. If you can swing it, make that taillight a radar. Back all of it up with as much reflective material as possible.
Off-road
Being “visible” to others isn’t as big an issue when you’re riding your local trails at night. Off-road, it’s all about seeing what’s coming and tracking the trail. On singletrack things come at you fast, and small details that are obvious in daylight can easily send you face-first into the ground.
I highly suggest riding with at least two lights: a wide-beam bar light and a more focused helmet light.
A powerful, wide-beam light on the bars helps with depth perception and lets you always see the trail ahead, even when turning the bars. The wide beam also helps with peripheral vision.
A more focused beam on your head lets you scan what’s coming and look where you’re going as you turn your head. It complements your bar light and fills out your field of view.
On the trail I would skip a rear-facing light completely. If you’re riding in a group, your buddies will thank you for it.
Light etiquette: don’t be that guy
Lights are a lot brighter than they were in 2013, and that comes with responsibility. On the road or on a shared path like the WOD, aim your headlight slightly down and drop it to a lower setting when someone is coming the other way. Blinding oncoming riders, runners and drivers isn’t just rude, it’s dangerous.
The same goes for mountain biking. There’s nothing like being on a group ride, stopping, and having someone talk to you while their bright-as-the-sun helmet light shines directly in your face... When you stop, look down or turn your light down. When you see a rider coming the other way, dim it. Courtesy matters, day and night.
Additional tips
Know your run time: Don’t plan a ride longer than your battery lasts. Trust me. Check your light’s run time on the setting you actually use, not just the lowest one.
Carry a power bank: Most good lights today are self-contained and charge over USB-C. Some, like my Outbound lights, can even run while charging. I carry a small Anker power bank that fits in my top tube bag or a jersey pocket. It’s not bulky or heavy at all, and it can save your ride if you’ve misjudged your run time.
Bring a backup (sometimes): Depending on the ride, I’ll still carry a backup light, usually my NiteRider system. Not always, but on longer or more remote rides it’s cheap insurance. Even a cheap portable flashlight is better than nothing. It’s also handy for fixing a flat or a mechanical without having to take your light off the bars.
Wear clear glasses: Most sport glasses let you swap dark lenses for clear ones. I highly recommend using those clear lenses at night.
Don’t upgrade just because: Lights are expensive. There’s no need to buy a new system every year. Unless your battery has seriously deteriorated and won’t hold a charge, save your money. A good light will last you years.
Ride legal, open places only: Most jurisdictions and local parks are closed from sundown to sunrise, and poaching trails at night is just as bad for access as riding illegal trails. Around DC, your legal options for night trail riding are limited, but they’re out there:
MORE’s organized night rides at Wakefield Park
The Patapsco After Dark series at Patapsco Valley State Park
Schaeffer Farm in Montgomery County, through MORE’s agreement with the county, until the trail closes for the season
DMV Riders often schedule night rides at FOuntainhead in coordination with NOVA Parks.
Check the MORE Calendar for details…
Another great option is to do a “dawn patrol” ride, shortly before the sun comes up. You get the night-riding experience, and by the time you’re done you’re riding into daylight.
What I use
On the road: I don’t venture out on the road much these days, but when I do, I still run my Cycliq Fly12 on the front and Fly6 on the rear, day and night. The cameras don’t give you the clarity or stabilization of a GoPro, but they’re a great addition to a light (upgrade imminent). I’ve also added a Garmin Varia radar taillight to the mix.
On the trail: I’m still running the Evo and Hangover setup from Outbound Lighting (they sell it together as the Evo Downhill Package), and I haven’t felt the need to upgrade since I purchased them a couple of years ago. My backup is a NiteRider setup: a NiteRider Lumina 1800 on the bars and a Lumina 1200 on the helmet.
What’s out there
These are brands I’ve used or owned and are just a handful of the lights on the market.
Outbound Lighting: These are the lights I’m running now. Several of my riding buddies use them too. They’re compact and light, and they put out a ton of light with a great beam pattern.
NiteRider: NiteRider has been a pioneer in MTB lighting and continues to make high-quality lights. I bought my first NiteRider light in the early ’90s. 10 powerful watts!
Light & Motion: I ran Light & Motion’s Seca lights for years, and they were some of the best lights I’ve owned. Sadly, the company is no longer in business.
