Out and Back to Lockhouse 49: C&O
Back in May of 2023, my good friends Paul, Becky, and I rode the length of the C&O Canal and had a blast along the way. It was an adventure I wanted to repeat in 2024—but this time, without pulling a trailer full of gear. Instead, I planned to carry everything on the bike.
To that end, I began investing in bikepacking gear and preparing for another long ride along the canal. Long story short, life got in the way and those plans were put on hold—until now.
Oct 2025 - Text & Images: Martín Fernández
2023 had been a great cycling year. I logged a lot of miles and finally checked off the C&O rite of passage. After that trip, I was eager to repeat the experience, ideally using one of the 31 campsites along the route and mixing in other lodging options, much like the first time.
But early in 2024, everything changed. My mother was diagnosed with colon cancer, and I spent the first four months of the year traveling back and forth between Northern Virginia and Lima, Perú. Cycling was no longer a priority. Sadly, she passed away in late April, followed by my father’s passing in December.
Beyond the emotional toll, the year also took a physical one. My health declined steadily, ultimately leading to life-altering ostomy surgery in early May. For all intents and purposes, 2024 became a lost year for cycling—it was physically impossible to ride.
Recovery from my proctocolectomy with end ileostomy has been ongoing, but after about three months I began to feel “normal” again. I was able to start walking roughly two weeks post-surgery, but riding was off the table until I received clearance from my surgeon. That moment finally came just over 90 days after leaving the hospital.
ABOVE: Tired but happy. Half way on my first ride back after major surgery, an easy loop at Carvins Cove in Roanoke, VA.
On August 9th, I drove down to Roanoke to ride an easy loop around Carvins Cove with good friends. I was back on the bike.
Shortly after that ride, I told my friend John that I was planning a solo bikepacking trip from my house to Prince William Forest Park (PWFP). PWFP is close enough that I could ride there and bail easily if needed.
John, meanwhile, was planning an out-and-back ride from Point of Rocks, MD (mile marker 48.2) to Lockhouse 49 (mile marker 108.7), roughly 60 miles west in Clear Spring, MD. He had rented the Canal Trust house for the night but was hesitant to do it solo.
I was equally hesitant—60+ miles on back-to-back days felt like a big step—but I eventually agreed.
ABOVE: I began prepping for the outing along my local gravel roads in PWFP by experimenting with load distribution. During this ride I was about 80% to capacity.
After getting my bike dialed in, the only thing left was preparing my legs. I was anxious, but confident things would go well, especially knowing I wouldn’t be riding alone.
Then came the news.
Three days before we were set to leave, John texted:
“Dude! A deer darted out in front of me and I crashed hard… pretty sure my collarbone is snapped.”
Confirmation followed shortly after:
“Ortho said the clavicle is broken in four places. Surgery Monday.”
With that, I had a decision to make. Ultimately, I chose to go at it alone. The C&O is well-traveled, relatively accessible if I needed to bail, and familiar territory given my previous ride.
I hadn’t ridden more than 30 miles in a single outing all year, but I trusted that pacing, hydration, and nutrition would get me through. I’d waited too long for this opportunity to pass it up.
Just after 11 a.m. on Saturday, I parked at the MARC station in Point of Rocks and began the 60+ mile ride to Lockhouse 49.
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Bradley, my gravel bike, fully loaded and ready for the ride. I ventured out from Point of Rocks around 11 am. My goal was to arrive at the Lockhouse between 5 and 6 pm. That included a lunch stop in Shepherdstown, WV.
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I made a quick stop in Brunswick. My original plan had been to stop there to have breakfast, but since I ate before the ride, I just made it a photo opp. Glad I did, Brunswick was bustling with activity.
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Moments like this are what make it worthwhile, though I wished I had my SLR with a long lens. A bald eagle stood calmly on a rock as I admired it and photographed it. This was around 20 miles into the ride.
The weather couldn’t have been better. I rolled west along the canal under clear skies, eventually reaching Shepherdstown, WV—my planned lunch stop. After about 2.5 hours and roughly 25 miles, I was ready to refuel.
I headed off the towpath and up Shepherdstown Pike to Potomac Ridge Brewing, which turned out to be the perfect midpoint stop. Sometimes rides like this blur the line between destination and excuse — the bike is just how I get to a cold beer.
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Lunch at Potomac Ridge Brewing
Stopping at Potomac Ridge Brewing in Shepherdstown for lunch was the “logical” choice. The brewery and restaurant are only ½ a mile up Shepherdstown Pike from the tow path. The staff were welcoming, food was great, and the beer was refreshing.
After lunch, I continued west, stopping roughly every ten miles to stretch. By mile 50, fatigue set in and I found myself counting down the mile markers. The final 12 miles were tough, but I rolled into Lockhouse 49 right on schedule at 5:30 p.m.
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Home for the night, Lockhouse 49. I was glad I did not have to pitch a tent this time around (that will come on my next adventure.)
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Self portrait. Minutes after arriving and exploring the house, I managed a self portrait while sitting in the living room.
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The house comes stocked with an ample supply of firewood. After settling in, I relaxed for a couple of hours in front of a toasty campfire.
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Another time I wished I had my SLR. The iPhone’s camera simply can’t capture how spectacular the moon was on this night.
Spending the evening by the campfire under a nearly full moon was a gift. It had been a long time since I’d had true solitude to reflect on everything that had unfolded since early 2024. Completing the ride alone helped me reclaim some lost confidence.
As night fell and the owls began calling, I packed it in, ate a light dinner, and turned in early—ready for the return ride.
Morning came quickly. After repacking, I set off just after 9 a.m., knowing I’d need at least six hours to complete the return trip. I had one extra motivation: making it back in time to listen to the Commanders play the Chargers at 4 p.m.
Like the day before, I stopped again at Potomac Ridge Brewing. The staff recognized me and welcomed me back—a small but memorable highlight of the trip.
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One last view of the lockhouse at around 9am, before heading back east to Point of Rocks.
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A “slight” detour two miles from the lockhouse. Much easier going up the stairs than down.
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The portion of the trail along Big Slackwater offers great views of the Potomac.
ABOVE: Back at the starting point. Still smiling.
Final Thoughts
I was incredibly fortunate to have perfect weather for this out-and-back ride and was grateful not to have to pitch a tent at the lockhouse. Staying in one of the Canal Trust lockhouses is absolutely worth the experience.
Next time, I’ll likely include at least one night of camping—possibly closer to home at PWFP—and eventually hope to tackle additional routes in Virginia, West Virginia, and beyond.
Despite all my planning, I managed to forget two essential items: sunglasses and Butt’r. The final miles didn’t need to be as painful as they were.
Like my previous C&O adventure, future trips along the towpath will almost certainly involve some form of accommodation. As much as I enjoy camping, sleeping in a bed has its advantages.
Finally, even though I rode solo, I was never truly alone. Friends checked in regularly, followed my progress, and offered encouragement throughout the ride. That support became fuel I didn’t know I needed—and it made all the difference. I continue to write more in depth about recovery and navigating life after surgery elsewhere, but this ride marked an important step forward.
If you’re planning a trip along the C&O, I highly recommend visiting the Canal Trust and downloading their mobile app. It’s packed with useful information and resources to help you plan and make the most of your journey.