Out and Back to Lockhouse 49: C&O
Back in May of 2023 my good friends Paul, Becky, and I rode the length of the C&O Canal and had a blast along the way. It was an adventure I wanted to repeat again in 2024. But, unlike that previous outing, I wanted to do it without pulling a trailer full of gear. Instead, I wanted to carry all of my essentials on the bike. To that end, I started investing in bike packing gear so that I could repeat the trip one year later. Long story short, life got in the way and I had to put all my plans on hold, until now…
Oct 2025 - Text: Martín Fernández. Images: Martín Fernández.
2023 had been a great cycling year. I got lots of miles in and I finally ticked off the C&O rite of passage. I had such a good time during those three days that I had planned to repeat the outing in 2024. After that trip, I started investing in bike packing gear and was poised to repeat the adventure. My goal was to use at least one of the 31 campsites along the way and find other lodging much like the first time. But, as the saying goes, life got in the way. Early in 2024 I learned that my mom was diagnosed with colon cancer, so I spent the first four months of the year traveling back and forth from NoVA and Lima, Perú. Cycling had to be put on hold.
Sadly, she lost her battle in late April. Followed closely by the passing of my father in December. Beyond the stress and emotional toll the whole ordeal had on me, I was also physically affected and began a downward health spiral that ultimately led to life altering surgery in early May of this year. For the most part, 2024 was a wash. Needless to say, my cycling took a big hit and became physically impossible to ride. I was assured, however, that once fully recovered from my surgery I could resume and begin doing what I loved most, riding my bike.
Recovery from my surgery took three months. While I was able to begin light exercise about two weeks after the procedure (walking), riding a bike was out of the question until I got the go ahead from my surgeon. That time came a little over 90 days after I left the hospital. On August 9th I ventured down to Roanoke to do an easy loop around Carvins Cove with good friends - I was back on the bike!
ABOVE: Tired but happy. Half way on my first ride back after major surgery, an easy loop at Carvins Cove in Roanoke, VA.
It was shortly after my Carvin’s Cove outing that I told my buddy John I was planning a solo bikepacking trip from my house to Prince William Forest Park (PWFP). PWFP is close enough to home that I can ride there and, if necessary, easily bail out. John told me he was planning an out-and-back outing from Point of Rocks, MD (mile marker 48.2) to Lockhouse 49 (mile marker 108.7), 60 or so miles west in Clear Spring, MD. He had rented the Canal Trust house for a night, but was hesitant to do it alone. I, on the other, was hesitant to commit to 60+ miles on back-to-back days, but, I reluctantly agreed and began preparing for the outing.
ABOVE: I began prepping for the outing along my local gravel roads in PWFP by experimenting with load distribution. During this ride I was about 80% to capacity.
After I finally got my bike where I wanted it to be - all that was left was getting my legs ready for the trip. I was anxious, but confident things would go well, especially since I would have someone to ride with along the way.
Then I got the news… On Wednesday, three days before we were supposed to head out I received the following text message:
“Dude! A deer darted our in front of me and I crashed hard. Turtle tucked but I am 95% sure my collar bone is snapped. Walking the 3 miles back to the truck then er…”
Confirmation came shortly after:
“Ortho said the clavicle is broken in 4 places. Surgery Monday”
So, I pondered my options and ultimately decided to go at it alone. I figured the C&O is well traveled, relatively accessible if I need to bail, and I was somewhat familiar with the route since I had ridden it before. I had yet to ride more than 30 miles on a single outing this year, but knew that if I paced myself, hydrated, and stayed nourished, I would be OK. I had been waiting for the chance to do this for so long that deep inside I knew I had to do it. Plus, I would not really be “camping” so things would be relatively easier on arrival at my destination for the night. I would definitely be stepping out of my comfort zone, but I was ready…
So, at just about 11 am on Saturday morning I parked at the MARC station at Point of Rocks and began my 60+ mile outing to Lockhouse 49.
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Bradley, my gravel bike, fully loaded and ready for the ride. I ventured out from Point of Rocks around 11 am. My goal was to arrive at the Lockhouse between 5 and 6 pm. That included a lunch stop in Shepherdstown, WV.
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I made a quick stop in Brunswick. My original plan had been to stop there to have breakfast, but since I ate before the ride, I just made it a photo opp. Glad I did, Brunswick was bustling with activity.
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Moments like this are what make it worthwhile, though I wished I had my SLR with a long lens. A bald eagle stood calmly on a rock as I admired it and photographed it. This was around 20 miles into the ride.
The weather could not have been better. I was graced with an absolutely gorgeous morning and pleasantly traveled west along the Canal until I reached Shepherdstown, WV, my lunch stop for the day. By now I had been rolling for approximately 2.5 hours (about 25 miles) and was ready for some food to sustain me for the next 35. I had scoped out several places and one stood out, Potomac Ridge Brewing. The restaurant was just under half way from my destination and just a half mile “up” the road from the towpath along Shepherdstown Pike.
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Lunch at Potomac Ridge Brewing
Stopping at Potomac Ridge Brewing in Shepherdstown for lunch was the “logical” choice. The brewery and restaurant are only ½ a mile up Shepherdstown Pike from the tow path. The staff were welcoming, food was great, and the beer was refreshing.
After lunch I carried on. I stopped briefly along the way - about every ten miles - to stretch my legs. By mile 50 I started to fade, and found myself desperately counting the mile markers. The last 12 miles were hard, but I managed to reach my destination at 5:30 PM, right on schedule.
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Home for the night, Lockhouse 49. I was glad I did not have to pitch a tent this time around (that will come on my next adventure.)
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Self portrait. Minutes after arriving and exploring the house, I managed a self portrait while sitting in the living room.
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The house comes stocked with an ample supply of firewood. After settling in, I relaxed for a couple of hours in front of a toasty campfire.
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Another time I wished I had my SLR. The iPhone’s camera simply can’t capture how spectacular the moon was on this night.
Hanging around the campfire under a nearly fool moon was definitely a treat. Other than occasional fire pits at home, it had been a while since I had a moment of solitude to reflect on everything that has happened since early 2024. Riding the 60+ miles to the lock house was a hurdle I had to overcome, doing it alone helped me regain lost confidence. As the night fell, and silence crept around me, I felt tremendous peace, until the owls started howling (below)! That’s when I closed up shop and headed in for the night. After a very light dinner, I hit the sack so I could be ready for the next day and the return ride to Point of rocks
Morning came quickly and after cleaning up and gathering/repacking my gear, I began the trip back to Point of Rocks shortly after 9 am. Based on the previous day, I knew I would need at least 6 hours to complete the ride. I wanted to make it back to Point of Rocks by 4 pm for a silly reason: to watch the Commanders play the Chargers at 4 pm. I literally made it back just in time to change out of my gear and listen to the game on my way home.
Like the previous day, I stopped once again at Potomac Ridge Brewing. I had originally planned to stop at a different place but based on the previous day’s experience I opted to repeat the outing. It was worth it. As I walked in two staffers recognized me and welcomed me back. I certainly plan to stop there again on a future outing and highly recommend you do too. Their pizza, cheesesteak sandwich, and beer are outstanding, especially when you are midway through a long ride.
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One last view of the lockhouse at around 9am, before heading back east to Point of Rocks.
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A “slight” detour two miles from the lockhouse. Much easier going up the stairs than down.
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The portion of the trail along Big Slackwater offers great views of the Potomac.
ABOVE: Back at the starting point. Still smiling.
Final Thoughts
I was incredibly fortunate and blessed with phenomenal weather during my out-and-back trip and was glad that I did not have to pitch a tent at my final destination. I would highly recommend staying at a lockhouse if you can. The experience was definitely worth it. I will, however, opt for a tent at least one night during my next outing, most likely locally at PWFP. My goal is to do a few other regional routes in Virginia, West Virginia and ultimately in Peru. One step at a time…
Despite all my planning and packing and re-packing I managed to forget two essential items, sunglasses and butt’r. The last 25 miles of the ride were painful, and should not have been. Most of the other gear I brought along was used. In retrospect I should have also packed my shelter, just in case.
Like last time C&O adventure, I think that any future outings along the tow path will involve some sort of accommodation like the lockhouse. As much as I like camping, there are many options along the canal to spend the night sleeping on a bed.
Finally, even though I pedaled solo, I was NEVER alone. I had company the entire way. Multiple friends asked me to keep them posted of my progress and regularly checked on me while I was out there. It felt great to be connected and share photos, and to chat about how I was feeling and the progress I was making with each pedal stroke. This was the extra fuel I didn’t know I needed to finish my outing. Don’t underestimate, or take for granted, the power that positive vibes from your friends can bring.
If you have never done this and are planning on it, there’s one resource I would advise you to check out before you begin your journey. Visit the Canal Trust and download their mobile app. The App is packed with useful information and details. The Trust’s website also has a ton of information that will help you plan your outing and make the most out of your C&O adventure.